Born:
Edward V of England, 1470; Dr. John Key
(Caius), founder of Caine College, Cambridge, 1510,
Norwich; Dr. Nevil Maskelyne, astronomer, 1732,
London; Madame Campan, biographer of Marie Antoinette,
1752, Paris; Louis Philippe, king of France, 1773,
Paris; Madame Jenny Lind Goldschmidt, vocalist, 1821,
Stockholm.
Died:
Charles the Bald, king of France, 877;
Charles X, king of France, 1836, Goritz, Styria.
Feast Day:
St. Faith or Fides, virgin, and her
companions, martyrs, 4th century. St. Bruno,
confessor, founder of the Carthusian monks, 1101.
ANCIENT WATCHES
Many inventions of the greatest value, and
ultimately of the commonest use, are sometimes the
most difficult to trace to their origin. It is so with
clocks and watches. Neither the precise year of their
invention, nor the names of their inventors, can be
confidently stated. Till the close of the tenth
century, no other mode of measuring time than by the
sun-dial, or the
hour-glass, appears to have existed;
and then we first hear of a graduated mechanism
adapted to the purpose, this invention being usually
ascribed to the monk Gerbert, who was raised to the
tiara in 999, under the name of Sylvester II. These
clocks were cumbrous machines; and it is not till the
fourteenth century that we hear of portable clocks. In
the succeeding century, they were much more common,
and were part of the necessary furniture of a
better-class house. They were hung to the walls, and
their movements regulated by weights and lines, like
the cheap kitchen-clocks of the present day. The
invention of the spiral spring as the motive power, in
place of the weight and line, gave, about the middle
of the fifteenth century, the first great impetus to
improvement, which now went on rapidly, and resulted
in the invention of the watch a time measurer that
might be carried about the person.
Southern Germany appears to have been the place
from whence these welcome novelties chiefly issued;
and the earliest watches were known as 'Nuremberg
Eggs,' a sobriquet obtained as well from the city from
whence they emanated, as from their appearance. The
works were enclosed in circular metal cases, and as
they hung from the girdle, suggested the idea of an
egg. Before the invention, or general adoption of the
fusee�that is, from about 1500 to 1540 the movements
were entirely of steel; then brass was adopted for the
plates and pillars, the wheels and pinions only being
fabricated of steel; and ultimately the pinions only
were of steel. The fusee being universally adopted
about 1540, no great change occurred for fifty years,
during which time the silversmith seems to have
assisted the watchmaker in the production of quaint
cases for his works, so that they might become
ornamental adjuncts to a lady's waist. Our first
example (formerly in the Bernal Collection, and now in
that of Lady O. Fitzgerald) tells, after an odd
fashion, the classic tale of Jupiter and Ganymede.
The works are contained in the body of the eagle,
which opens across the centre, and displays the
dial-plate, richly engraved with scrolls and flowers
on a ground of niello. It will be perceived that this
watch is so constructed, that when not suspended to
the girdle by the ring in the centre of the bird's
back, it can stand on the claws wherever its owner may
choose to place it.
Watches were now made of all imaginable shapes
and sizes, and the cases of all forms and materials;
crystal was very commonly used, through which the
mechanism of the watch might be observed. Sometimes
stones of a more precious character were cut and
adapted to the purpose. The Earl of Stamford possesses
one small egg-shaped watch, the cases cut out of jacynths, the cover set round
with diamonds on an
enamelled border. Mr. O Morgan has in his curious
collection of watches one in form of a golden acorn,
which discharged a diminutive wheel-lock pistol at a
certain hour; another was enclosed in silver cases,
taking the form of cockle-shells.
We engrave a specimen of a watch in form of a duck
(also in Lady O. Fitzgerald's collection); the
feathers are chased on the silver. The lower part
opens, and the dial-plate, which is likewise of
silver, is encircled with a gilt ornamented design of
floriated scrolls and angels' heads. The wheels work
on small rubies. It is believed to be of the time of
Queen Elizabeth.
When the famous Diana of Poitiers became the
mistress of Henry II, she was a widow, and the
complaisant court not only made her mourning-colours
the favourite fashion, but adopted the most lugubrious
fancies for personal decoration.
Rings in the form of skeletons clasped the finger;
other mementos of an equally ghastly description were
used as jewels; small coffins of gold contained chased
and enamelled figures of death; and watches were made
in the form of skulls, of which we engrave an example.
All these quaint and bizarre forms passed out of
fashion at the early part of the seventeenth century,
when watchmakers seem to have devoted their attention
chiefly to the compact character of their work. About
1620, they assumed a flattened oval form, such as we
have seen used to a comparatively recent period; they
were sometimes furnished with astronomical dials, and
perpetual moving calendars, and often struck the hour;
the inner case acting as a silver bell. In
Ben Jonson's
Staple of News, the opening scene exhibits a
dissolute junior anxiously awaiting his majority, who
' draws forth his watch, and sets it on the table;'
immediately afterwards exclaiming:
�It strikes!�one, two,
Three, four, five, six.
Enough, enough, dear watch,
Thy pulse hath beat
enough.
Now sleep and rest;
Would thou couldst
make the time to do so too:
I'll wind thee up no
more!'
It appears, then, that until 1670, when the
pendulum-spring was invented, the mechanism of the
watch had made no advance since the days of Elizabeth.
The French makers were among the first to introduce
judicious improvements, particularly such as effected
weight and size. Lady Fitzgerald possesses a gold
enamelled watch manufactured by order of Louis XIII,
as a present to our Charles I, which may rival a
modern work in its smallness. It is oval; measuring
about 2 inches by 1 1/2 across the face, and is an
inch in thickness. The back is chased in high-relief
with the figure of St. George conquering the dragon;
the motto of the Garter surrounds the case, which is
enriched with enamel colours. Grotesque forms for
watch-cases seem to have quite gone out of fashion in
the seventeenth century, with one exception; they were
occasionally made in the form of a cross to hang at
the girdle; and are consequently, but erroneously,
sometimes called 'Abbess's watches.'
The example here engraved is also from the
collection just alluded to. It is covered with
elaborate engraving of a very delicate character; the
centre of the dial-plate represents Christ's agony in
the Garden of Olives, the outer compartments being
occupied by the emblems of his passion; a figure of
Faith occupying the lowermost. The style of engraving
is very like that of the famous Theodore de Dry, who
worked largely for the French silversmiths at the
commencement of the seventeenth century.